Gardening Tips | sea-breeze-organics

Tips for Growing Healthy Tomatoes

Soil:

Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil. It's important that the site receives at least 6 hours of sun per day.
Two weeks before transplanting seedlings outdoors, till soil to about 1 foot and mix in aged compost. If you are using raised beds there is no need to dig into soil except make a hole deep enough to add the compost and place your plant on top.
It's important that your soil is light and airy.
If you have clay or hard soil you may loosen it by adding any combination of one or more of sand, vermiculite, coconut coir, compost, peat moss.
Each fall we add a thick layer of organic mulch over the entire garden. This can be fallen leaves, wood chips, compost or straw.

Soil Recipe Sample:

3 parts peat moss or coir -for moisture retention.

(a part can be a cup, 5 gal bucket, tractor load etc.)

2 parts sand - creek sand is best but no matter what you use make sure it isn't chemically treated. This serves as an aerator and drainage.
2 parts compost - compost adds fertility and moisture distribution but should be fully mature; immature compost can bring weed seed, encourage plant pathogens and lock up nitrogen.
1 part worm castings - if you don't have a worm bin, castings can be purchased at garden-supply stores (Halifax Seed). They will help feed soil and crops. This will help take the place of adding actual soil to the mix. If you can't find worm castings add more compost.
Add 2 cups of lime for every 5 gal. of peat moss for PH. Adjust it accordingly.
Add a handful of crushed eggshells per 5 gal. bucket of peat. This is a good source of calcium if ground to a powder. Rinse eggshells, dry on paper towel, bake in a 200F. degree oven for 10 min. and when cool grind them in a coffee grinder until the shells become powder. I use my Magic Bullet. I save the small container that comes with the set to use for only the eggshells. The eggshells leave a coating on the container that is difficult to wash off unless it is washed each time it is used.

Transplanting:

Transplant after last spring frost when the soil is warm. (May 8 - 21 in HRM). We are outside of HRM and our last frost date can be as late as June 10.
If there's a chance of frost be sure to cover them if they are already planted. We use tomato cages as supports. It's easy then to pull large clear garbage bags over the supports and tie at the bottom with a cord.
Establish stakes or cages in the soil at the time of planting. Staking keeps developing fruit off the ground, while letting the plant hold itself upright.
Some sort of support system is recommended, but sprawling can also produce fine crops if you have the space, and if the weather cooperates.
Plant seedlings two feet apart. (you can get away with closer if you keep them pruned).
Pinch off the lower branches leaving about 3 - 4 branches on transplants, and plant the root ball deep enough so that the remaining leaves are just above the surface of the soil.
Mulch: Cuts way down on weeding. Keeps soil moist so you won't have to water as much and cuts down on disease problems. The mulch protects the plants from soil splashing up on the stems and leaves which makes them vulnerable to disease.

Companion Planting For Your Tomatoes:

Planting certain vegetables and flowers next to each other can be a great benefit to a successful gardening experience. Try the following for your tomatoes.

Basil - This can be planted next to most garden crops. It improves the growth of tomatoes and lettuce. It also repels mosquitoes. If you grow the rue herb do not plant near basil. They are not friends.
Marigolds - This flower can be planted near all garden crops. It stimulates vegetable growth and deters bean beetles, aphids, potato bugs, squash bugs, nematodes, and maggots.

Other plants that are beneficial for your tomato plants are:

Asparagus, cabbage family, carrots, gooseberries, mustard, parsley, onions, rosemary, sage, stinging nettles.

But it's important to keep tomato plants away from:

Fennel, kohlrabi, potatoes, walnuts.

Watering:

Water well when transplanting to reduce shock to the roots.
Water generously for the first few days.
Water well throughout the growing season, about 2 inches per week during the summer.
Keep watering consistent! A good rule of thumb is to drench the whole area once a week with water making sure there is good drainage and the roots of the tomatoes are not sitting in water. They don't like wet feet. This would be the time to add your liquid amendments.
An important point to remember is that irregular watering can initiate cracks in tomatoes. Watering hard after a long period of drought will cause the ripening fruit to fill too quickly with water and cause cracking and also loss of flavour.
Make sure you water around the plants and not on them. This will help prevent disease.
The best time of the day to water is in the morning.

Feeding:

Every two weeks (with your regular watering) water your plants with a tea made from 1/2 Tablespoon of Kelp/fish liquid and Epson Salts to 1 gallon of water.
We recommend you purchase from Halifax Seed or any gardening centre an organic fertilizer and follow their directions. We do not use any products with bone or blood meal in it.
We also use 1 part sea water from the ocean to 9 parts water and mix with the Epsom Salts mixture. Don't worry about the salt. It will not harm your plants as long as you dilute as directed. (don't pour on the leaves) Seawater provides many minerals that are lacking in our soils that our bodies need. If you have access to seaweed or dried kelp the sea water is not necessary.

Mulching Benefits:

Cuts down on weeding and watering.
Protects plants from water splashing up on stems and leaves which encourages disease.
Excellent way to add organic nutrients to the soil.
Encourages earth worms to your garden.

Sources:

Grass clippings - before the weed seeds mature.
Wood Chips - Our favorite type of mulch. If you can find a free source of this kind of mulch we would recommend it. In the last couple of years we have not been able to find a free source so we are now using a combination of the following.....
Straw - We use this mostly between paths to keep weeds down but we also use it on the garden beds if we do not have enough leaves and compost. This breaks down the same as leaves, adding loamy humus and nutrients to your soil .
Leaves - Collected in the fall of the year and using our lawn mower we break it down as small as possible and scatter it on top of each bed about 3 to 4 inches thick. At the time of planting we pull it aside and as the plant grows we pull the leaves in closer to plant. Over summer they break down into the soil and in the fall after the beds are cleaned up we add another layer. We are finding this method most satisfactory. No need to dig or turn your soil. Just keep layering.
Compost - We make our own compost from kitchen scraps, seaweed and leaves. Over time the garden beds get better and better. We also add the other amendments mentioned on this page.

Pests:

We do not have any problems with pests on our tomatoes. Hopefully you won't either. Disease is probably the worst challenge that you will have to contend with.

If you have a tomato loving dog in your family you may find tomatoes disappearing. That's one kind of pest I have no solution for.

This is a picture of my Granddaughter's beautiful

Border Collie she lost January of 2017. Not from eating Tomatoes (which he loved) but swallowing a ball that caused bloat. He did not make it through surgery. This sweet boy was anything but a "pest".

Disease:

Ah, yes!, disease. Where do I start.....

Causes:

poor soil
improper watering
weather

Disease is an on-going threat to all gardeners. Spring is the perfect time to implement strategies to help prevent these ailments.

1. Septoria Leaf Spot: Symptoms of this fungal disease begin as tiny circular splotches on the leaves. These splotches have tiny, dark brown specks in the center. The splotches usually occur on the lower leaves first. Eventually, they expand and may join together.

Septoria Leaf Spot thrives during wet weather, as in the case with most fungal diseases. To increase air circulation, space plants properly. It's also important to rotate crops on an annual basis.

At the end of the growing season, be sure to remove diseased plants. While the spores of Septoria Leaf Spot do not overwinter in the soil, they can easily overwinter on diseased plant debris or on alternate plants.

Do not work in the garden when the foliage is wet, as it can promote the spread of this disease. Remove and destroy infected leaves as soon as you spot them. Do not compost them.

2. Early Blight: This is very common in our humid climate. It first appears as yellow and brown splotches on the lower leaves of the plant. Eventually, all the leaves may turn yellow, develop dark splotches and fall off. The fruit will continue to ripen so a harvest is possible, but it will not continue to produce new fruit and eventually the plant will die.

Once a garden shows signs of Early Blight it is in the soil to stay. The best way to prevent a future repeat is to put a mulch barrier between the soil and the plant to prevent spores in the soil being splashed onto the plant when watered.

Good air circulation is also important.

3. Blossom End Rot: (not a disease) This is caused from a lack of calcium within the growing fruit. Adding calcium will not help the situation (unless you know that your soil lacks calcium). It is caused from improper watering.

The only way for calcium to enter the plant is through water uptake. I lost almost all of my Roma tomatoes in 2016 to Blossom End Rot. I could not figure out what the problem was until at the end of the summer I emptied my containers and saw that the soil had not been mixed thoroughly in the beginning and had compacted so that the water was running down the sides of the container and out the bottom, bypassing the roots and leaving my plants thirsty for water and hungry for calcium.

This summer I will be especially mindful to fill my containers with well mixed loose soil and water thoroughly once a week. Update: No more blossom end rot.

Tips for Growing Healthy Tomatoes

Soil:

Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil. It's important that the site receives at least 6 hours of sun per day.

Two weeks before transplanting seedlings outdoors, till soil to about 1 foot and mix in aged compost. If you are using raised beds there is no need to dig into soil except make a hole deep enough to add the compost and place your plant on top.

It's important that your soil is light and airy.

If you have clay or hard soil you may loosen it by adding any combination of one or more of sand, vermiculite, coconut coir, compost, peat moss.

Each fall we add a thick layer of organic mulch over the entire garden. This can be fallen leaves, wood chips, compost or straw.

Soil Recipe Sample:

3 parts peat moss or coir -for moisture retention.

(a part can be a cup, 5 gal bucket, tractor load etc.)

2 parts sand - creek sand is best but no matter what you use make sure it isn't chemically treated. This serves as an aerator and drainage.

2 parts compost - compost adds fertility and moisture distribution but should be fully mature; immature compost can bring weed seed, encourage plant pathogens and lock up nitrogen.

1 part worm castings - if you don't have a worm bin, castings can be purchased at garden-supply stores (Halifax Seed). They will help feed soil and crops. This will help take the place of adding actual soil to the mix. If you can't find worm castings add more compost.

Add 2 cups of lime for every 5 gal. of peat moss for PH. Adjust it accordingly.

Transplanting:

Transplant after last spring frost when the soil is warm. (May 8 - 21 in HRM). We are outside of HRM and our last frost date can be as late as June 10.

If there's a chance of frost be sure to cover them if they are already planted. We use tomato cages as supports. It's easy then to pull large clear garbage bags over the supports and tie at the bottom with a cord.

Establish stakes or cages in the soil at the time of planting. Staking keeps developing fruit off the ground, while letting the plant hold itself upright.

Some sort of support system is recommended, but sprawling can also produce fine crops if you have the space, and if the weather cooperates.

Plant seedlings two feet apart. (you can get away with closer if you keep them pruned).

Pinch off the lower branches leaving about 3 - 4 branches on transplants, and plant the root ball deep enough so that the remaining leaves are just above the surface of the soil.

Mulch: Cuts way down on weeding. Keeps soil moist so you won't have to water as much and cuts down on disease problems. The mulch protects the plants from soil splashing up on the stems and leaves which makes them vulnerable to disease.

Companion Planting For Your Tomatoes:

Planting certain vegetables and flowers next to each other can be a great benefit to a successful gardening experience. Try the following for your tomatoes.

Basil - This can be planted next to most garden crops. It improves the growth of tomatoes and lettuce. It also repels mosquitoes. If you grow the rue herb do not plant near basil. They are not friends.

Marigolds - This flower can be planted near all garden crops. It stimulates vegetable growth and deters bean beetles, aphids, potato bugs, squash bugs, nematodes, and maggots.

Other plants that are beneficial for your tomato plants are:

Asparagus, cabbage family, carrots, gooseberries, mustard, parsley, onions, rosemary, sage, stinging nettles.

But it's important to keep tomato plants away from:

Fennel, kohlrabi, potatoes, walnuts.

Watering:

Water well when transplanting to reduce shock to the roots.

Water generously for the first few days.

Water well throughout the growing season, about 2 inches per week during the summer.

Keep watering consistent! A good rule of thumb is to drench the whole area once a week with water making sure there is good drainage and the roots of the tomatoes are not sitting in water. They don't like wet feet. This would be the time to add your liquid amendments.

An important point to remember is that irregular watering can initiate cracks in tomatoes. Watering hard after a long period of drought will cause the ripening fruit to fill too quickly with water and cause cracking and also loss of flavour.

Make sure you water around the plants and not on them. This will help prevent disease.

The best time of the day to water is in the morning.

Feeding:

Every two weeks (with your regular watering) water your plants with a tea made from 1/2 Tablespoon of Kelp/fish liquid and Epson Salts to 1 gallon of water.

We recommend you purchase from Halifax Seed or any gardening centre an organic fertilizer and follow their directions. We do not use any products with bone or blood meal in it.

Mulching Benefits:

Cuts down on weeding and watering.

Protects plants from water splashing up on stems and leaves which encourages disease.

Excellent way to add organic nutrients to the soil.

Encourages earth worms to your garden.

Sources:

Grass clippings - before the weed seeds mature.

Wood Chips - Our favorite type of mulch. If you can find a free source of this kind of mulch we would recommend it. In the last couple of years we have not been able to find a free source so we are now using a combination of the following.....

Straw - We use this mostly between paths to keep weeds down but we also use it on the garden beds if we do not have enough leaves and compost. This breaks down the same as leaves, adding loamy humus and nutrients to your soil .

Compost - We make our own compost from kitchen scraps, seaweed and leaves. Over time the garden beds get better and better. We also add the other amendments mentioned on this page.

Pests:

We do not have any problems with pests on our tomatoes. Hopefully you won't either. Disease is probably the worst challenge that you will have to contend with.

If you have a tomato loving dog in your family you may find tomatoes disappearing. That's one kind of pest I have no solution for.

This is a picture of my Granddaughter's beautiful

Border Collie she lost January of 2017. Not from eating Tomatoes (which he loved) but swallowing a ball that caused bloat. He did not make it through surgery. This sweet boy was anything but a "pest".

Disease:

Ah, yes!, disease. Where do I start.....

Causes:

poor soil

improper watering

weather

Disease is an on-going threat to all gardeners. Spring is the perfect time to implement strategies to help prevent these ailments.

1. Septoria Leaf Spot: Symptoms of this fungal disease begin as tiny circular splotches on the leaves. These splotches have tiny, dark brown specks in the center. The splotches usually occur on the lower leaves first. Eventually, they expand and may join together.

Septoria Leaf Spot thrives during wet weather, as in the case with most fungal diseases. To increase air circulation, space plants properly. It's also important to rotate crops on an annual basis.

At the end of the growing season, be sure to remove diseased plants. While the spores of Septoria Leaf Spot do not overwinter in the soil, they can easily overwinter on diseased plant debris or on alternate plants.

Do not work in the garden when the foliage is wet, as it can promote the spread of this disease. Remove and destroy infected leaves as soon as you spot them. Do not compost them.

Once a garden shows signs of Early Blight it is in the soil to stay. The best way to prevent a future repeat is to put a mulch barrier between the soil and the plant to prevent spores in the soil being splashed onto the plant when watered.

Good air circulation is also important.

3. Blossom End Rot: (not a disease) This is caused from a lack of calcium within the growing fruit. Adding calcium will not help the situation (unless you know that your soil lacks calcium). It is caused from improper watering.

This summer I will be especially mindful to fill my containers with well mixed loose soil and water thoroughly once a week. Update: No more blossom end rot.

I hope this will be some help to you. Remember, you can contact us at anytime if you have any questions.